As mentioned in an earlier post, my husband and I have been jumping through hoops en route to approval of my anxiously awaited ‘housewife’ visa. Upon arrival at Abu Dhabi airport, like most everybody else, my passport was stamped with a 30-day tourist visa. I was given 30 days (+ a 10-day grace period) to either leave, get that housewife visa, or simply step out of the country for a minute and get it renewed on the way back in. This latter is so common, that at the UAE/Oman border crossing, the first question asked is “are you here for Visa renewal or for holiday?” Rather than drive 5-6 hours roundtrip through the desert, we opted to catch a flight over to Muscat on the gulf of Oman. The flight takes roughly an hour, about like a flight from Phoenix to Los Angeles, and with multiple hotels and resorts available and affordable during the off season (aka right now) the choice was made simple for us.
We arrive very late at night, with 2 goals for this weekend; Visa renewal and absolutely nothing else. When we open the blackout curtains (after taking a swing at actually sleeping in which neither of us are good at) we see the most spectacular view…
mountains to the left, a stretch of beach directly in front, and ocean over the low hills to the right. The morning sun is casting shadows away from us, meaning we will have a perfect sunset view. We’re off to a great start!
We are staying at the Club level of the hotel I selected, and a complimentary breakfast is available in a private lounge at the opposite end of a very short hallway. OMG! If there had been any doubt remaining about the decision to come here, it was completely erased with one glance at the breakfast spread. It was beautiful! Plus there was actual brewed coffee, something our small hotel home in Abu Dhabi does not offer. Not only that, but the coffee is made from African beans precisely ground per individual cup, and it is delicious. The spread is a tasty combination of both Middle Eastern and Western breakfast selections. Nuts, fresh and dried fruits, sautéed veggies, and beans for the Middle Eastern crowd. Eggs, cheeses, sausage, smoked fish, and a selection of breads, cereals, and pastries for the Westerners. Oh, and fresh Orange Juice squeezed to order from local oranges. The assortment is artfully and impeccably displayed and thankfully tastes as good as it looks.
When we finish we take our second cups of coffee out onto the patio and take in the view, and enjoy the lack of humidity. The Sultanate of Oman is located west of the UAE, and is the oldest independent state in the Arab world. The current Sultan came into power at about the same time as the UAE came into existence, in the early 70s. Under his rule, Oman has become one of the most stable and welcoming countries in the region. The economy is diverse and the workforce is mostly local, and by all we saw, happy to be there. Muscat is a nice balance of the old and the new.
Muscat at first blush is the opposite of Abu Dhabi. There are no high rises. In fact, there is not a single ocean front mega development to be seen. The city from this angle looks like what I had envisioned a Middle Eastern city would look like – low slung white buildings with lots of arches and other graceful embellishments. The desert terrain is eerily similar to what we grew up with in Phoenix, only without the cacti. The mountains reminded us very much of South Mountain. It is a long east-west row with several layers of mountain at differing but relatively similar heights. There is a river just south of the hotel that flows into the gulf. The vegetation grows vigorously along the fresh water, but not really anywhere else. As I look up one of the trails I see a couple of 4WD vehicles making their way up to the top, past the water storage tanks, and it makes me smile. Overall the view here is more comforting and familiar than the endless flat we experience in Abu Dhabi.
Our hotel has a small private beach wedged between a pair of large rocks, and we make our way down to check it out. The sand is very fine, and super soft. There is not a point where it firms up at all! Whether along the water’s edge, further up the beach, or in the water, our feet sink 4-5 inches down at each step. Once we get used to that and look around, we notice spots of pink all around us. The color is what they used to call ‘dusty rose’ back in the 70s. There are literally hundreds of small button shells of this color all around us. I reach down to pick up a couple and they disappear in the soft sand. It is not until we stand perfectly still and let the sand sift through our fingers that we are able to pick them up. I have not seen shells in quite this color anywhere else, the picture really does not get it right. Together we collect a handful of them each, along with some surprisingly intact cowrie type shells. The water is crystal clear, and a bit cooler than in the Arabian Gulf. It does not appear to be quite as salty.
We basically waste a full 2 days in this beautiful and friendly city, meaning we have achieved at least half of our goal. After our late checkout, the hotel invites us to stay and enjoy the club lounge until it’s time to catch our cab to the airport. We enjoy a cocktail on the patio and watch the sun sink lazily into the Gulf of Oman. The front desk calls to tell us our taxi is here, and we reluctantly head back home to accomplish the second of our goals. Our cab driver shares pictures of himself and his son at a Wadi (Oasis) a few hours into the desert from here. It is amazingly beautiful! He tells us also of deep sea fishing and scuba trips available. As if we needed that prompting, we vow to return to Muscat and stay a bit longer next time.
Side note: If you are considering a trip to Muscat – for a visa run or just for fun – I highly recommend the Crowne Plaza. I have not in recent memory enjoyed such fantastic service, friendly staff, and fantastic food as we were treated to this weekend. When we come back we will definitely stay here again.