I sit here this morning sipping my coffee, realizing that I have to return to the sandbox in 2 days. That is both good and bad. Bad because though the heat has subsided, it is still too hot for me (daytime mid 90s and evening low 80s). At least it appears the evenings will be now be bearable, and the humidity level has dropped into the 50 percentile. Still I will need air conditioning to survive, and I really dislike air conditioning. To the good side, and most importantly of all, my husband lives there and I miss his arms and companionship greatly. He is on his way here for 2 more Ayurveda treatments (it is working really well for him – yay! We will fly back together Friday.
A distant second is the food. I really enjoy the quality and variety of food in Abu Dhabi. To be perfectly frank, I have grown tired of the same flavors in almost everything here. Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love Indian food of all kinds, and this may just be me as I have had the same issue when traveling other places in the past. I simply prefer a large variety in flavors and tastes. Here they advertise other cuisines available, but only one or two restaurants actually provide something somewhere close to traditional flavors, and none of them are super close. Except for the guacamole at Chilly Beans. I think that stuff would rival any Mexican restaurant it was put up against! The next trip in I will be looking for a place with a kitchen I can use, and bringing along some herbs and spices not readily available here. Not only is it cheaper to buy groceries than eat out, but I can control the flavors and that would be a monstrous plus to a long term stay here.
I am not close to the first to leave here. As I have said before this town is very seasonal. The area I am staying in will be a virtual ghost town by the end of the month. Even now, many restaurants and shops have closed for the season. The Yoga and meditation training classes, like the birds, migrate south in winter. Most of them shut down at the end of September. I am sitting right now in one of my favorite cafés (the aforementioned Chilly Beans) which will be closing on Friday, the day I leave. So in this, my final posting from here in the beauty that is the Himalayans, I am going to write a bit of a travel advisory for others who may choose to come and enjoy the area.
First, if you are going to stay long term, I recommend that you bring a pillow and pillowcase from home. The pillows here are VERY thin. I saw this in every room I looked at (and I looked at over a dozen.) In addition to the thickness (or lack thereof) they are of questionable materials and age, and frankly I have no idea how often they are cleaned. I tried to find a new one to purchase and was unsuccessful. It is also my understanding that outside of the major hotel chains in the big cities, this recommendation applies pretty much anywhere you travel in India. If you don’t want to carry it along, consider a blow up travel pillow or ship your own to your destination in advance.
On the subject of bedding, the mattresses they use are also thin, much like a camping mattress. In fact, they are exactly like the mattresses in my little Apache pop up! As near as I can tell they are cleaned and aired out relatively frequently (at least where I am staying.) I had no issues with mine, but if you require more padding, I recommend you bring along a camping mattress. There are many very good quality, light weight and easy to pack options of these available.
Second, before using the toilet in your hotel room, make sure you have purchased toilet paper. It is not provided. I know – weird – but true. The cost is 20-30 rupees for a roll (30-45 cents) depending on where you are. Just make sure to be prepared before you are in need. Also, best to carry a roll or partial roll with you for use in public restrooms as they, too, are not always stocked.
Do not plan on using a credit or debit card anywhere outside of the big cities. The only place that I have been able to use one in the 6 weeks I have been here is the Tibetan bookstore in McLeodganj. The restaurants, hotels, shops, and even the schools all take cash. Don’t worry if you show up without cash in hand, the hotel will usually spot you until you find an ATM. However, ATMs very quickly are depleted, (likely as a result of a pressing need for everyone to have cash) so plan accordingly. I also understand that the local Western Union will give a cash advance on a credit card in case you are one of the few remaining people who do not travel with a card that is ATM compatible. I think that is probably an expensive way to go though. Again, plan accordingly.
Mosquito repellant. Anywhere you travel in India you will need it. The mosquitos are not as bad here as in other areas, but they ARE here. Also noseeums – I hate those things. I recommend that if you are coming to this area, you wait until you arrive to purchase the repellant. You can purchase Tulsi Oil here. In addition to being really good for you, it works very well! Smells pretty decent too, especially considering the alternative. Let’s face it – Deep Woods Off works to repel not only mosquitos and other insects, but also humans as well. However, if you are traveling to one of the areas where Malaria and/or Dengue fever is common, you may want to be armed (and covered) with pretty serious stuff before you get off the plane. Please also make sure to take the meds required to travel in such places. No sense in taking a chance.
It is OK to arrive here (or anywhere in India really) without a solid plan. The people are warm and accommodating, and will help you find what you are looking for. Even in peak season there are options available. I also advise you to look at several alternatives before making a decision. Your visa may require you to have plans in advance, including a letter of confirmation from a hotel. Go ahead and get a place online if it is necessary or makes you comfortable, but know that it is negotiable when you arrive. Even if you opt not to stay at all.
Do NOT bother renting a car. In fact if you are staying in a big city I strongly advise against it. Nobody wants to get into that mess! Whether in small villages or big cities, taxis are plentiful, cheap, and often negotiable. If you want more freedom than just having your legs and/or a taxi, I suggest renting a motorcycle or scooter for traveling the countryside – OUTSIDE OF the big cities. They are easy to find and inexpensive to rent.
DO NOT pack a whole bunch of stuff. Nobody here is going to care if you wear the same outfit twice in a week, or even 2 days in a row! Pack intelligently, bring a couple of pairs of pants and a few shirts that you can mix and match. Sturdy and comfortable shoes are a necessity, and I recommend 3 pairs so you can rotate them. If you find you did not bring enough… clothing (like pretty much everything else) is very inexpensive here. Buy what you need after you arrive. I packed for 6 weeks in a super cool backpack that meets airline carry on requirements. Still, I brought too much. In fact, I am leaving a few things behind in the form of donations to the local thrift store. After all, I need to be able to fit my purchases!
Most importantly, when you are planning your next vacation, please take India into consideration. If you do, make sure to get outside of the crowds in the major cities, and into the countryside. It is possibly the most laid back and loving place you will ever visit.
In parting, here are a few things I am going to miss…
Fresh Mint Tea This beautiful bird with a long blue tail
This mural on the side of the school that I swear I have seen before
These guys
Hi, Katie, So glad for your experiences. I just finished reading a bok for my book club on the live in the slums of Mumbai. Oh, my! We can’t even imagine existing that way, however, I saw the same thing in China. You are a terrific travel guide. So glad you share.