Days 6&7 – Passau and Melk

We woke up in Passau this morning.  Situated at the confluence of 3 rivers (2 large and one teeny) it is an ancient town that burned to the ground in the mid-1600s and rebuilt itself from the ashes to become something completely different.  There were multiple options for the day, with most opting to go to Salzburg and meet the ship at Linz that evening.  We opted to stay in Passau, and it was an excellent decision.

The local walking tour groups were again divided up, and I lucked into another fantastic guide.  For a little over an hour we went up and down the hills (hill?) of Passau.  In addition to the local history, he threw in personal stories of life in a town that floods just about every single year.  At the town office there are flood water markers showing the flood of 2013 to be the second worst ever.  (The worst happened in the late 1600s.)  As a result of this history, the buildings along the front of the Danube have only shops on the ground level.  People may live on the next level up from the ground floor, but not on it.  So the city owns these buildings and rents the ground floor shops out very cheaply.  Most of these buildings are 4-5 stories, with apartments above the shops.  Out of necessity, the city has done a great job of design and has very good plans in place for flood days.  They have specially designed panels to fit into the windows and doorways to prevent the average flood waters (usually less than half a meter – a foot and half or so) from coming into the buildings, and the window above the entryway doubles as a door.  However, when you look at the flood markers, you see that during at least 4 floods in Passau’s history caused even the level above the shops to be flooded.  Our guide lived in one such building during the 2013 flood, on the first floor above the shops.  He described the flood plan, and getting in through the window/door first from a ready made bridge, and then from a boat.  He now lives at the top of the hill.  I can’t imagine why!

At the end of our tour there was a lovely Christmas market in the same vein as the one in Passau, only much smaller.  There was a fantastic wood shop and a truly great glass artist there.  Of course we were forced to make another purchase.  We left Passau at noon and cruised 6 hours to Linz.  Larry and I opted not to go into town, and instead enjoyed massages on board.  The goal is relaxation, and we are working hard to achieve our goal.

Overnight we cruised to Melk.  As many times as I have been to this region, I haven’t ever had the opportunity to see Melk Abbey.  Both of us took advantage of the cruise offered tour of this active Benedictine monastery and private school.  I am SO disappointed that they no longer allow photography inside.  The floors are inlaid wood floral and paisley design, made of 3 different kinds of wood.  They are amazing!  I went online and the only image I found was this one.  It gives you an idea, but this design was only in 2 rooms, and was NOT the prettiest one.

The walls are hand sculpted plaster.  The building itself was rebuilt in the Baroque style in the 1600s, because the Prince wanted to update the original Gothic architecture in typical “keeping up with the Jones’s” style.

As I write this, we are on our way to Vienna where upon arrival this evening we will hear a live Strauss and Mozart concert in one of the historical concert halls.  Tomorrow Schonnbrun!

P.S. We are having so much fun, and have met some really great people along the way.  This river cruise line has an amazing staff, and I believe that a quick wit and great sense of humor are requirements for employment.  We have laughed so much!  In addition to an overall summary of highlights, I am planning a “blooper reel” of sorts to try and convey the hilarity that has ensued on this trip.  Please stay tuned.

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