Budapest has been very high on my bucket list or a looooong time. It’s completely justifiable. I love this place! I really do. It warrants a return, next time for a long term stay. It isn’t just the beauty of the place, it’s also the spirit and tenacity of the people. They have been through a lot together, this city and its people. There has been a city here since the first century BC. Built by the Celts, early history includes being part of the Roman Empire, ruled by the Hun and part of the Ottoman Empire. Budapest has been through 3 sieges, and survived the occupation of both Nazis and Communists. While Berlin and Prague fought to topple communism, Hungary simply opened its borders and voted them out of power. The Revolution of 1989 is considered the very first break in the Iron Curtain. Ask any native over the age of 30 and they are happy to tell you what they’ve been through, and how proud they are of their city and their country. The beatings this city has taken are not readily apparent in the beautiful buildings, bridges, and boulevards. They rebuilt quickly and very well.
We had no specific plans save for dinner on our last night in town when wearrived. Turns out that was a great choice. We disembarked just before noon and checked into our hotel, located basically the other side of the Danube from where the ship had docked. The Hotel Gellert was built as a spa atop one of Buda’s famous baths in 1906. The baths are still in the basement, and are stunning in design. Parts of the hotel still show the opulence of the early days, and parts reflect the last complete overhaul, completed during the communist era. Our room was very comfortable, with a lovely huge window that served as a door onto our top floor carved stone balcony. I loved it.
The cruise line had sponsored a city tour on the day we arrived. It had been a cold and damp day, but we had seen the major sights. We woke up to a stunningly sunny and (relatively) warm day on our first full day in Budapest, and opted to return to Fisherman’s bastion for some photos with actual sunlight to better showcase the beauty of this town.
We then opted to see the labyrinth and the cave hospital – 2 things I never knew about until this trip. The “Hospital in the Rock” was created from the natural caves beneath Buda Castle. The history of this hospital begins with WWII, when the Castle District housed the Government. At that time, a portion of the caves and tunnels were connected and fortified to be used as an air raid shelter. On order from the Mayor of Budapest, and emergency surgical center was added. The hospital was used extensively, and at one point housed wounded civilians and soldiers that numbered almost 10 times the originally intended 60 beds. In fact, at times they opened up connections into the adjoining caves in order to place stretchers of the less wounded and those recovering.
Between 1958 and 1962, the communists expanded and added fortification again in order to withstand a potential nuclear attack during the cold war. It was labeled “Top Secret” and was called the Emergency Nuclear Hospital and Bunker. They have created quite a museum here, with original beds, surgical theaters and instruments from WWII era, as well as the instructions, decon chamber and gas masks from the Cold War. Our local English-speaking guide was very knowledgeable, and the creepiness factor though high, serves it well.
After our 1-hour hospital tour, we walked a few hundred yard to the entrance of the labyrinths under the castle to continue to view the Buda underground. This cave system is really huge! It has many depths and connections, all the way over to the hotel we are staying in if you were to brave the entire distance.
On that end, there are chapels in the caves as well as several natural hot springs that bubble up.
Having had enough of the underworld, we climbed back up to the top of the hill and took the funicular down to the riverfront where we opted for a Segway tour of the Pest side. What a kick! I am going to write Santa a letter right now and ask to have a Segway under the tree. As soon as I have a tree to put it under. Whenever that may be.