The original plan was to be gone for Ramadan. We had a trip to Mauritius planned and I was going to get to knock #1 off my bucket list. Then the boat purchase took forever, and the delivery is going to take a while. So it’s Ramadan, and here we are.
To be fair I had been warned, but I thought how bad can it be? So what if some (ok many) people are fasting during the day? That shouldn’t have any impact on me. Wrong. Wrong wrong wrong. Geez. The entire feel of the place is different. Not only are many businesses closed during part of the day (much like siesta time in Spain or Mexico) but traffic is greatly reduced and people are simply moving more slowly. (I would be too if I were fasting 15 hours per day and not allowed to take even a sip of water during that time.) This lack of food is making people grumpy and lethargic. That is changing the energy of the entire city and country, and probably region.
Almost simultaneous to the beginning of Ramadan, taxi fares went up. I guess since the oil workers have left town the drivers have been having a hard time making their daily minimums. Answer? Raise fares by 30%, and create a minimum fare. Most of my rides are less than the minimum even with the higher flag fall, so this effectively increases my cab rides by almost half. In addition to increased fares that people are grumbling about, many of the taxi driver are also fasting. Their shifts are 12 hours or more and they work 6 days per week. This is a tough schedule any time, but right now they aren’t able to take lunch or snack breaks. They can’t even have a bottle of water in their car! Many of them are grumpy too and I don’t blame them. However, not one of them complains. In fact, I have not heard a single participant say anything negative about the process at all, even though we all know it isn’t easy. I asked one of the taxi drivers what happens if you are a Muslim living in Alaska or Sweden where the sun doesn’t set at all really these days. How does the daylight fasting work there? I was happy to hear that the timings are set to Mecca sunset and sunrise, so everybody uses the same hours as everybody else, which seems fair.
We haven’t yet gone to an Iftar meal. I may have mentioned this before, but Iftar literally means Break Fast. It is the meal at the end of the day of fasting, after the evening prayer. There are huge tents set up all around town where people come together in the evening to share this meal and fellowship. 
The traditional meal begins by eating dates, and though not mandatory, it does appear that most follow that
tradition here as dates abound! Even more than normally. It is also tradition for the tables to be set up in long rows,or at least able to seat a large number of people since the time is all about community and sharing. Though or recently as things have become more westernized, they are 
setting up smaller tables to attract a more diverse group. Some of the more traditional meals will not have tables at all and the guests will sit on the ground and eat. 
However they are set up, in the neighborhood or in the resort area, the tents are filled with people. As you go past, you can see people inside are relaxed and smiling and generally appear to be enjoying themselves. It is a happy time of the day.
At this point we are a little over half way through Ramadan. This year it will end the evening of June 24th. Overall it has been a frustrating couple of weeks for me, but it has created the opportunity to figure out where to go, what to do, and how to get there in the heat. Ok really, the last question isn’t real. I’m taking a taxi. No way I am wandering around in the heat, especially when I cannot take a bottle of water along. I have learned how much my daytime wanderings took me someplace for tea or coffee or a bottle of water, or to sit down with a friend over lunch. None of these is available at most of my normal haunts. The single exception is The Club. Don’t get me wrong, I love the Club, it’s a very nice place. Just not all day long nice. Even splitting time between there and home is not enough places to be. My wanderings have not stopped altogether, but they are greatly curtailed. I’m doing a lot more reading and writing than usual. I get to catch up on movies, and binge watch TV shows on Netflix or Amazon. So it isn’t horrible, it’s just different. Maybe if we get to one of those Iftar meals it will be better. I am making that a goal.
That said, next year we do not plan to be here for Ramadan. I think the Seychelles are looking good…
Seychelles would be great.