The Club

the-club-16

I have mentioned the Club in a few posts already, so let me show and tell what I am referring to.  When we were exploring all of the areas of town to live in, our realtor suggested that whichever place we decided on, we should choose a club to join so that we would be able to establish connections with other expats in the area.  Her top suggestion was The British Club.  The British Club was established on land donated by Sheik Zayed bin Sultan al Nahyan for such a purpose.  At the time it was WAY out of town.  Not so much any more.  It turned out that my husband knew quite a few of the members already, so getting a recommendation and a couple of seconds were pretty easy for us, and we joined.  This has been an excellent decision for us.

the-club-2 the-club-3

The Club as it is now known (having dropped the ‘British’ part several years ago) has been a godsend for me.  It offers a wide variety of classes from fitness, to languages, arts, and drama, to specialty clubs like SCUBA and book clubs.  There are also 13 different Food and Bev outlets on site.  the-club-8 the-club-9

I go to yoga and pilates classes there several times per week, and my husband and I frequently go on the weekends to just relax and enjoy the private beach.  In the latest ‘Best of Abu Dhabi’ voting, The Zest restaurant won best healthy eating restaurant, and boy is it good! the-club-15 Located inside the Fitness Center building it is one I frequent often.  On weekends many the-club-10of the people my husband works with get together at the main bar or restaurant and enjoy a stress blowing evening together.  We join the fun occasionally as well.

Recently The Club held its annual Guy Fawkes night, and we invited some friends to join us for this unique evening.  Historic Side note:  Guy Fawkes was possibly England’s most notorious traitor.  He was one of 13 English Catholic men who, in 1605, plotted to blow up the British houses of Parliament, and in the process kill King Edward, possibly the Prince of Wales, and multiple members of Parliament who were making it difficult on Catholics in England at the time.  (Today they would be called terrorists.)  The plot was unsuccessful due to the fact that one of the members had a crisis of conscience and warned a Parliament member.  Guy Fawkes was caught with 36 barrels of gunpowder, and subsequently executed as a traitor.  The incident became known across England as the Gunpowder Plot.  On the night that the Gunpowder Plot was foiled, bonfires were lit across the country to celebrate the safety of the King.  Since then, November 5 has become known as Bonfire night or Guy Fawkes night.the-club-12

the-club-17
The Club had a bonfire in the back parking lot, followed by fireworks over the beach.  Multiple options for dinner and entertainment were offered, something different in each outlet.  We opted for the picnic basket for 2 on the lawn at The Wharf, with a great view of the fireworks.  So we made reservations for 2 couples, and wondered if we had done the right thing.

Our friends arrived on the night in question.  We shared a cocktail at suimg_0617nset, then moved over to The Wharf, found our assigned table on the lawn, and waited anxiously to see what we got ourselves into.  Not to worry… This was NOT your average picnic basket.  OMG!
Each basket came with a bottle of bubbly, but we opted to trade one of our bubbly bottles for a bottle of the house red (a very nice tempranillo) which made for a more balanced offering overall.  img_0616The fireworks began shortly after we sat down, and everybody paused to head for the beach for a closer view.  What a great night!

Overall joining The Club was a great decision.  Having a very comfortable place to go for activities and events, where we can take friends and family (should they opt to visit) is terrific.  The very International vibe of the membership mirrors Abu Dhabi in general, and the venue offers multiple amenities together in one spot.  It’s a welcoming home away from home.

the-club-1

Groceries

img_18381

We had only been in the new apartment for a few days when I left for India.  I really didn’t have the opportunity to spend a lot of time in the kitchen.  Now that I’m back, and have got plenty of time on my hands for cooking, I am learning about what it takes to cook here.

Besides making alterations for baking at sea level (as opposed to 7000 ft) there is the issue of ingredients.  There is no vanilla extract here.  The replacement that we have for liquid vanilla is awful.  It is ground vanilla suspended in an oily, syrupy, concoction, and it is truly bad.  It not only tastes horrible, it doesn’t measure correctly.  So I got a vanilla bean grinder.  That is working great for cakes and in crème brulee.  It is fantastic in coffee.  However, I still haven’t figured out how to work the measurements for cookies.  I am told that the reason there is not vanilla (or lemon or almond or any other extract) is because they are alcohol based.  While that makes sense in a Muslim society, one would also think that alcohol based mouthwash would also be verboten.  But no… We can get that!  Side note: I haven’t ever heard of a hardcore alcoholic drinking vanilla but I have heard of them drinking mouthwash.  I don’t get it.

img_18371

Also not available?  Pinto beans, regular cream cheese (there’s plenty of low fat and/or whipped stuff), honey crisp apples, or good baking chocolate.  The kind I need for ganache cookies, flourless chocolate cake and well, ganache.  So as not to be too big of a whiner, I need to also point out that there are things standardly available here that you would have trouble finding – or not find at all – in the US.  For example fresh quail (always in the poultry section here), camel milk, and a bunch of fresh fruits regularly in the produce section including guava, dragon fruit, mangosteen, jackfruit, kiwi berries and a whole lot more.  The great news is that I can bring all of that stuff back after Thanksgiving in the states.  Then… I will have a perfect pantry.  I’ll bring back the stuff I need and add it to the fresh ingredients here.  Happy me!

img_18351 img_18361

Speaking of the iimg_18311ngredients here… I finally made it to a spice souk.  WOW!  My favorite shop had over 30 bins each filled with a different ground or whole spice (or spice mix)img_18301 and great raw ingredients like turmeric root and vanilla beans.  Other bins had many different teas, dried fruits, grains, and beans.  He also had 3 cuts of saffron.  It is img_18321more expensive than the other spices, but WAAAAYYY less than it is in the US.

About $4.50US per gram for first cut Iranian saffron.  Wow.  And it’s beautiful! fullsizerender-2

This shop also had multiple varieties of dates (most food shops here will have at least 2 or 3) a couple of varieties of camel milk chocolates – which are delicious – and an entire wall of oils.  Being able to buy as much or as little of whatever I need ensures I’ll be a regular here.

Changing Times

img_1747
Had the last post been uploaded, you would already know about the changes in weather here.  But, since I apparently walked away before ensuring the post went live (and now find it to be stale) I feel the need to explain the changes again.  The weather right now in Abu Dhabi is a BAZILLION times better than it was when I arrived in July.  Seriously.  And Bonus! It is getting better daily.  On the downhill side, the city is significantly more crowded.  Apparently a huge contingent of people simply leave town and travel for a substantial amount of time between mid-June and mid-September.  img_1737That makes total sense in light of the weather, and is something we will keep in mind moving forward. As a result of this phenomena there are MANY more clubs and classes available now than there were in the summer.  These public classes include just about every type of exercise, cooking, dancing, language, writing, and every type of art or craft you can imagine.  The clubs are for those who enjoy movies, books, gaming, eating, wine tasting etc.  These types of classes and clubs are typically found just about any place, but it certainly feels as though there are a LOT more offerings here.  Maybe I am seeing so many because I have the opportunity to participate in whatever I want to.  It could be I am looking a bit harder!  Whatever the reason, I am thrilled to know I can develop quite an interesting and varied weekly schedule for myself.  Had I come back a couple of weeks earlier I would now be taking both conversational Arabic and writing classes.  Good news – both of these are offered again after the first of the year!  I will definitely be taking part.

img_1723Along with the great weather and increase in people, also comes a plethora of outdoor festivals and entertainment opportunities.  Most of these are offered in one of the many outdoor parks here in AD.  To date each of the parks I’ve seen here, much like all of the outdoor spaces, are beautifully designed and well maintained.  There are usually multiple water fountains and other water features, meticulously maintained landscaping, and multiple covered spaces of varying sizes for picnics or other gatherings.

img_1719img_1724

One of the most pleasant surprises we have encountered we experienced just yesterday afternoon.  The RIPE market.  I first heard about it from the hair stylist at The Club, and learned more from the yoga instructor there.  RIPE market is a farmer’s market featuring certified organic seasonal produce that is grown here in the UAE.  So I made plans to go!

  img_1726

I think it is fair to use the word awesome here, because the RIPE market is a huge wow!  There is a significant amouimg_1731nt more to the overall market than just the produce.  Simply put, this is a weekly family event.  There are food trucks, stalls for kids that feature everything from bubble machines to face painting, crafts booths, and just about every other things you can think of including an outdoor movie space.  One booth had some great outdoor lights, another had really pretty handmade dresses, and another had locally made craft soaps.  As usual I got stuck at that one and could not walk away without at least one bar of camel milk soap made with organic essential oils.  Very cool!

 img_1710

The star of the show is definitely the produce.  It was exactly as advertised… all certified organic and (almost) all local.  This is a small country, so if it is grown here, it is at best hours and at worst only a couple of days off the tree/bush/vine.  The produce portion of the market is about 75 yards img_1711long with a huge variety of offerings from Apples to Zucchini.  It was a beautiful thing… and I was in heaven!  The best news is that the market runs every Saturday for 7 whole months (first of October through the end of April.)  Then the weather gets too warm, so they shut it down and do home delivery only during that img_1708time.  (Really?  Gee what a       shame wink-emoji!)  Please understand that ‘seasonal’ here is a weird term, at least as it applies to produce.  There is not a real winter, so the growing season is most of the year.  I imagine that the blistering heat of July and August may preclude some things from growing, but with very little effort and a whole lot of shade and water one can likely continue to grow whatever doesn’t require actual cold weather.

Thanks to this discovery, my superb spouse and I now have a great Saturday routine lined up for the next few months… swim some laps at the Club and have a late breakfast pool or seaside (depending on the crowd) while reading or catching up online.  This is followed up by a trip to the RIPE market, and ends at the sushi bar across the street from our apartment.  Life is good.

img_1742

Before I leave India…

img_1448

I sit here this morning sipping my coffee, realizing that I have to return to the sandbox in 2 days.  That is both good and bad.  Bad because though the heat has subsided, it is still too hot for me (daytime mid 90s and evening low 80s).  At least it appears the evenings will be now be bearable, and the humidity level has dropped into the 50 percentile.  Still I will need air conditioning to survive, and I really dislike air conditioning.  To the good side, and most importantly of all, my husband lives there and I miss his arms and companionship greatly.  He is on his way here for 2 more Ayurveda treatments (it is working really well for him – yay! We will fly back together Friday.

A distant second is the food.  I really enjoy the quality and variety of food in Abu Dhabi.  To be perfectly frank, I have grown tired of the same flavors in almost everything here.  Don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love Indian food of all kinds, and this may just be me as I have had the same issue when traveling other places in the past.  I simply prefer a large variety in flavors and tastes.  Here they advertise other cuisines available, but only one or two restaurants actually provide something somewhere close to traditional flavors, and none of them are super close.  Except for the guacamole at Chilly Beans.  I think that stuff would rival any Mexican restaurant it was put up against!  The next trip in I will be looking for a place with a kitchen I can use, and bringing along some herbs and spices not readily available here.  Not only is it cheaper to buy groceries than eat out, but I can control the flavors and that would be a monstrous plus to a long term stay here.

I am not close to the first to leave here.  As I have said before this town is very seasonal.  The area I am staying in will be a virtual ghost town by the end of the month.  Even now, many restaurants and shops have closed for the season.  The Yoga and meditation training classes, like the birds, migrate south in winter.  Most of them shut down at the end of September.  I am sitting right now in one of my favorite cafés (the aforementioned Chilly Beans) which will be closing on Friday, the day I leave.  So in this, my final posting from here in the beauty that is the Himalayans, I am going to write a bit of a travel advisory for others who may choose to come and enjoy the area.

First, if you are going to stay long term, I recommend that you bring a pillow and pillowcase from home.  The pillows here are VERY thin.  I saw this in every room I looked at (and I looked at over a dozen.)  In addition to the thickness (or lack thereof) they are of questionable materials and age, and frankly I have no idea how often they are cleaned.  I tried to find a new one to purchase and was unsuccessful.  It is also my understanding that outside of the major hotel chains in the big cities, this recommendation applies pretty much anywhere you travel in India.  If you don’t want to carry it along, consider a blow up travel pillow or ship your own to your destination in advance.

On the subject of bedding, the mattresses they use are also thin, much like a camping mattress.  In fact, they are exactly like the mattresses in my little Apache pop up!  As near as I can tell they are cleaned and aired out relatively frequently (at least where I am staying.)  I had no issues with mine, but if you require more padding, I recommend you bring along a camping mattress.  There are many very good quality, light weight and easy to pack options of these available.

Second, before using the toilet in your hotel room, make sure you have purchased toilet paper.  It is not provided.  I know – weird – but true.  The cost is 20-30 rupees for a roll (30-45 cents) depending on where you are.  Just make sure to be prepared before you are in need.  Also, best to carry a roll or partial roll with you for use in public restrooms as they, too, are not always stocked.

Do not plan on using a credit or debit card anywhere outside of the big cities.  The only place that I have been able to use one in the 6 weeks I have been here is the Tibetan bookstore in McLeodganj.  The restaurants, hotels, shops, and even the schools all take cash.  Don’t worry if you show up without cash in hand, the hotel will usually spot you until you find an ATM.  However, ATMs very quickly are depleted, (likely as a result of a pressing need for everyone to have cash) so plan accordingly.  I also understand that the local Western Union will give a cash advance on a credit card in case you are one of the few remaining people who do not travel with a card that is ATM compatible.  I think that is probably an expensive way to go though.  Again, plan accordingly.

Mosquito repellant.  Anywhere you travel in India you will need it.  The mosquitos are not as bad here as in other areas, but they ARE here.  Also noseeums – I hate those things.  I recommend that if you are coming to this area, you wait until you arrive to purchase the repellant.  You can purchase Tulsi Oil here.  In addition to being really good for you, it works very well!  Smells pretty decent too, especially considering the alternative.  Let’s face it – Deep Woods Off works to repel not only mosquitos and other insects, but also humans as well.  However, if you are traveling to one of the areas where Malaria and/or Dengue fever is common, you may want to be armed (and covered) with pretty serious stuff before you get off the plane.  Please also make sure to take the meds required to travel in such places.  No sense in taking a chance.

It is OK to arrive here (or anywhere in India really) without a solid plan.  The people are warm and accommodating, and will help you find what you are looking for.  Even in peak season there are options available.  I also advise you to look at several alternatives before making a decision.  Your visa may require you to have plans in advance, including a letter of confirmation from a hotel.  Go ahead and get a place online if it is necessary or makes you comfortable, but know that it is negotiable when you arrive.  Even if you opt not to stay at all.

Do NOT bother renting a car.  In fact if you are staying in a big city I strongly advise against it.  Nobody wants to get into that mess!  Whether in small villages or big cities, taxis are plentiful, cheap, and often negotiable.  If you want more freedom than just having your legs and/or a taxi, I suggest renting a motorcycle or scooter for traveling the countryside – OUTSIDE OF the big cities.  They are easy to find and inexpensive to rent.

DO NOT pack a whole bunch of stuff.  Nobody here is going to care if you wear the same outfit twice in a week, or even 2 days in a row!  Pack intelligently, bring a couple of pairs of pants and a few shirts that you can mix and match.  Sturdy and comfortable shoes are a necessity, and I recommend 3 pairs so you can rotate them.  If you find you did not bring enough… clothing (like pretty much everything else) is very inexpensive here.  Buy what you need after you arrive.  I packed for 6 weeks in a super cool backpack that meets airline carry on requirements.  Still, I brought too much.  In fact, I am leaving a few things behind in the form of donations to the local thrift store.  After all, I need to be able to fit my purchases!

Most importantly, when you are planning your next vacation, please take India into consideration.  If you do, make sure to get outside of the crowds in the major cities, and into the countryside.  It is possibly the most laid back and loving place you will ever visit.

In parting, here are a few things I am going to miss…

Fresh Mint Tea                             This beautiful bird with a long blue tail

img_1401img_1639

This mural on the side of the school that I swear I have seen before

img_1462

These guys

fullsizerender-3

Thoughts on India

 img_1460

I’ll be honest here and say that India was never high on my radar as a tourist destination.  Sure, I would love to see the Taj Mahal (and I will on my next trip in the spring) but other than that, not much appealed to me in terms of a place I would like to spend a vacation.  I came here this time strictly for the opportunity to learn about Ayurveda at the source.  I have since changed my point of view.  India is huge and extremely diverse.  There is an experience for just about every type of travel.  Great beaches, mountain trekking, wild animal safaris, and for those who are into it, there are locations with great shopping.  A big draw is the affordability.  By the time I leave here 10 days from now, I will have been here for roughly 6 weeks.  The cost of this stay, including food, lodging, transportation (airfare too) schooling and more than a few gift type purchases will total right around $2000.  That said, this place, and the type of travel I am doing is not for everybody.  There are no 5-star white glove places here.  I am staying in one of the nicest places here for the whopping price of $15 per night.  It is clean, there is hot water, a western style toilet, and it is relatively private.  You could easily find places for half or less than that were you willing to compromise on the level of privacy, and the toilet style.  A place with a shared balcony and a traditional Indian style toilet will run you less than $6/day.  Shared bathroom facilities drops it to around $4.  What I am telling you is that this is a very inexpensive place to travel to.  The pricing is not uncommon around the country, though in larger cities like Mumbai or Delhi and highly traveled tourist areas such as Goa, I am sure you can find the 5-star hotels and the price tags associated with them.

Those of you who are my FB friends have seen photos of the meals I/we have gotten here and the price tags attached to them (like the 82 cent double shot caramel latte treat pictured above).  Average cost of a very nice meal is about $2.75 and a real splurge (like grilled chicken or pork loin) is maybe $5.00.  I sometimes get all bent out of shape momentarily when I think I am being asked to pay too much only to come to realize that when I am being asked to pay 300 rupees for a pair of yoga pants, and it seems ridiculous, it’s only $4.50.  Seriously.  I almost feel bad about arguing about it.  Almost – it is expected here so I do.  But not too much.  It really does not bother me a whit if they think I am a poor negotiator.  The starting price is worth it!

The area I am in is not considered impoverished.  Most people have a job, a roof over their head, and enough food for their family.  They are nicely cimg_1464lothed, most have transportation of some sort or access to it.  This considered as close to ‘middle class’ that you can get in this country, and I would say that with very few exceptions (only 1 I’ve met) they are extremely kind, giving and happy people.

img_1307

 

 

 

All of that said, I AM in a tourist area.  People here make their living mostly by teaching, or by serving those here to learn.  There are long term certification classes for yoga, meditation, massage, and at least 2 schools for Ayurveda.  There are also smaller more personal (usually evening) classes that last between a day (or an hour) or two up to a week for things like knitting, macramé, dancing, jewelry making, Indian cooking, crochet and then there’s this guy…. img_1341  He does pretty well for himself based on my experience with the variety and sounds of the Dij’s in the area.  I am sorry I did not have the phone with me as I passed one particularly beautiful wooden dij last week.  I am not kidding – it was gorgeous!

Many people img_1461make their wares to sell.  I pass this guy when I walk down to McLeodganj.  He is one of 3 people in the area who makes wooden stamps by hand.  Many of the local clothing shops feature a guy on a sewing machine at the front making what he is selling.  There are quite a few jewelry shops with the artist in residence.  There are many differences in quality and design.  Likewise with the 3 or 4 leather working shops in town.

Possibly the best buy/bargain in the area are the shawls/pashminas/wraps (whatever you want to call them) that are made from either silk, cotton, some type of wool or a combination of those.  Many are locally hand loomed.  There is a small town not far uphill that I am told employs around 120 people that produce some of my favorite ones.  I plan to find and img_1324visit that town next trip!  My favorite so far are the ones made of yak wool.  Yak wool is soft, warm, lightweight and not at all scratchy.  There are more colors and combinations than you can possibly imagine.  This weekend I am planning to go all the way down to Dharamsala (it’s 2 miles – gasp!) and check out he shops there so I can complete my Christmas shopping.  (Yes that’s right I said COMPLETE!  Hehehe)  I am told the ‘big city’ has some different shops with a few more diverse types of wares.  I hope that’s correct.

 

Why I am here…

The power goes out here a lot.  Usually it is just for a few minutes.  Long enough to be annoying if you are online or need some light, but not long enough to truly disrupt your day.  Often it is localized, meaning just in a small area.  Except for today.  Today the power went out early in the morning.  It was out in Bhagsu, it was out in McLeod, and it was out for most of the day.  Virtually ALL of the restaurants cook with gas, so grabbing a meal, a cup of tea or chai is not an issue.  Coffee?  No.  Fresh juice or fruit lassi?  Nope.  Upload your blog?  Nein.  Charge your laptop, phone or Kindle?  Negative.  Class?  Yes!  We just open the curtains to have enough light, and off we go.

This week we are focusing on nutrition.  The foundation of my interest and the primary reason I am here.  I have had the question from a couple of you asking to talk about the food, and how I am planning to apply my new knowledge.  I think I have shared that according to Ayurveda, each of us has our own body type, and therefore each of us responds differently to stimulus in our world.  This includes food.  There is a way for each of us to eat in order for our individual bodies to be balanced.  I have learned how to determine each person’s body type, and how to determine if they have any basic aggravations within their system (more on that to come.)  The more I learn, the more I want to learn – which is very cool.  I cannot recall feeling that way about any class I have taken, except for one on the effects of over the counter drugs that I took in college.

Here are the basics:  An Ayurvedic diet is not one of denying yourself your favorite thing, or restricting yourself to a set diet for indeterminate amount of time.  It is about paying attention to how you feel before, during and after your meals, and eating those things that help you to continue to feel and perform at your best.  Though each of us has our own basic body type, and therefore a type of diet that will generally work best for us when we are at our best, Ayurveda recognizes that we are NOT always operating at our best.  During times when we are sick, be it for a day, or with something chronic, there are foods that will either aggravate or reduce the symptoms of whatever is bothering us.  Afflictions as complex as Cancer, Diabetes, and Arthritis, or as common as dry skin, dandruff, obesity or heartburn (and several hundred more) are addressed within this 5000 year old science.  Our bodies are amazing.  They can heal themselves given the right combination of time, nutritional tools and frame of mind.  Ayurveda is a long term overall health plan.  It is intended to give you the best quality of life for the longest period of time possible.  It certainly works if the lifespan and attitude around these parts is any indication.

To give you a fundamental idea, here are some of the key points:

  • All foods are characterized into 6 different tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, pungent, and astringent. Each of these tastes should be present at every meal for the meal to be balanced, and for you to feel completely satisfied.  By having these tastes present, your body will have received the tools it needs and bonus!!! Cravings will be reduced.  Cravings happen when your body does not feel nourished or satisfied.  Understand that an occasional craving is normal.  Long term and/or constant cravings indicate an imbalance.  (Pregnant women excluded of course – they are to get whatever they want!)
  • Eat seasonally. Ayurveda also recognizes the seasonality of both foods, and the human body. (There is a valid reason why you don’t want to eat a heavy meal when it’s hot outside!)  Certain foods cause certain reactions in your body.  Fresh foods, prepared at home or anywhere that you can know what’s added, eaten with awareness and in proper quantity will add strength.  Processed or highly preserved (canned foods or commercial premade frozen meals) and anything eaten in excess will make you sluggish and fog your mind.  It’s common sense!
  • Your body needs you to eat fat. I think the Western nutritionists are just getting back to this.  Low fat diets are body weakening and create space for illness.  However, you must get the RIGHT kind of fat.  Minimally processed Olive, Sesame, Grapeseed oils and ghee are all good sources.  Nut oils are good.  Avocado and coconut oils are good.  Anything highly processed such as Canola and Soy are not.  Of course, Ayurveda was created long before GMOs and synthetic pesticides so… just stay away from that stuff in general.  If it isn’t as nature intended, your body cannot identify it and therefore cannot process it properly.
  • Your diet needs to be varied… protein, grains, vegetables (both raw and cooked) etc. should be different each day. This is the only way to get everything you need.

There is a lot more but these are the basics.  Once you know your body type or Prakriti you can know how to focus your eating i.e. more veg based, more or less protein and correct type of each.  Are you somebody who can tolerate a lot of meat, or should you focus more on vegetable proteins and eat meat sparingly?

So let me say, I have a LOT more to learn.  I am just at the tip of the iceberg and yet I know enough to begin to work it into a plan I can run with, and I can use some feedback here.  My thought is (and really has been for a while) to take the information I have, combined with the research I’ve done through the years, and go into business (or continue on really) as a personal chef.  What would that look like exactly and is there a market? Would I be a Wellness Personal Chef?  Health Supportive Personal Chef?  What would I call myself? (I am open to ideas.)

Also I need some practice, and that means volunteers.  If you would like for me to give you an idea of what your Prakriti is, reach out and let me know.  Send a text, PM, or email, or leave a message here with your email address, and I will follow up with you.  Get some free education on what will work for you according to Ayurveda before I start charging for this stuff!  (meals not included…)    wink-emoji

Life in Bhagsu

NOTE:  The internet in Bhagsu has become very undependable and slow.   I am now sitting in Mcleod at a place I was promised has great consistent wifi – judging by the signal and the crowd in here, I think it does.  I have edited and combined several full posts to catch you up.  Now that I know of this place I will be once again be more consistent…..

 

img_1448

My husband has returned to Abu Dhabi and I have settled into a routine here in the mountains of India.  My sleep pattern is not much different from the standard early to bed/early to rise that has been my inclination since childhood.  However the days are much different.  I am trying to work an Ayurvedic day a close to precisely as I can, and it is turning out to be simultaneously energizing and calming.

I wake up early, drink some water, do breathing exercises, ablutions, read/write a bit over a cup of warm beverage of the day and a piece of fruit.  Then I head to yoga class for 90 minutes.  I come back, shower and change and go for a leisurely breakfast.  Over breakfast I review my notes from the previous day, and skim through the entirety of them, stopping at highlighted areas in an effort to force my brain into total comprehension and recall.  It seems to be working.

I head for class and for the next several hours immerse myself in the latest information, taking notes, asking questions and participating in discussimg_1431ions.  Our instructor is both an MD and an Ayurvedic Doctor.  Many of our classroom conversations include comparisons of Western Medicine to Ayurveda, and also the places where they work together.  There are things Western Medicine is very good at – Emergency Medicine being the one most commonly cited.  Ayurveda is a long term approach to overall health, and frankly, 5000 years ago they didn’t have car accidents and bullet wounds to contend with, so that makes sense.  The biggest concern was why people were suddenly getting sick when they moved away from more solitary and familial/tribal living in the jungle timg_1449o the larger communal and multi-cultural living of villages, towns and cities.

After class I usually take a walk around the area, through the woods, to the next town, wherever.  After a small evening meal I return the room and pull out my  notes and transcribe them into my computer.  When I finish that I sit on the deck with my book.  Tough life, huh?

This week we have been doing practicals, meaning wimg_1433e are learning some of the most basic Ayurvedic treatments, including massage, (oil, dry, and with freshly made bolus).  We have learned the indications and contraindications for each, and which bolus to use for what complaint.  We take turns being the practitioner and the patient – which makes it really fun.img_1432

I have today off… The rainy monsoon season is supposed to be over.  It isn’t.  I am not saying this by way of complaint, only stating a fact.  This morning I awoke to thunder echoing off the mountains and a light Seattle-esque drizzle.  In point of fact, most of the rain has been like that, more mist than rain, but ever present.

img_1414It had paused this morning when I left my room for breakfast at my favorite local place at the top of the hill.  I placed my order, pulled out my Kindle, and began to read.  The breeze became stronger and I was momentarily chilled.  The owner of the restaurant came around and closed some of the windows to temper the air flow, and the rain started to become steady and stronger.  I lost focus on the story as a memory came to me of rain on a tin roof and I look up.  The entire roof here is metal, and the sound of the beating rain is deafening… and absolutely wonderful.  I look out the window to my left, straight into a tangle of trees, ferns and Oh. My. Gosh… Mountain laurel blossoms.  I am not in India.  I am a child in the North Georgia mountains, laying on the screened porch of my grandparents cabin on Lake Burton.  The rain on the tin roof, the woods, the mountain laurel, they are all there as well.  It was the best place in the entire world when I was a child (and to be honest, it’s still in the running in my adult mind.)  The memories hit me hard as the sounds and smells of the rain, and the surprising appearance of previously unnoticed mountain laurels take control.  For some reason I start crying and laughing simultaneously.  I really like it here.

Today is going to be a very good day.

India Update

img_1342

I am in love with this place.  We arrived not knowing what we would find and, to be honest, our plans were somewhat sketchy.  School was the only certain thing.  We knew nothing of the town, nothing of how meals and accommodation would work, and nothing about location of anything relative to the school.  My husband jumping on the opportunity to come at the beginning of the trip (as opposed to the end as originally planned) made me nervous.  He tends to prefer things a little more programmed than I was going in with.  With 1 very minute exception, everything could not have worked out better.

img_1353

First, the location here is visually stunning.  The rate at which the mountains shoot up into sky is breathtaking.  Each morning I wake up, roll over, and look out from my bed into the sky over the valley.  Sometimes the clouds, are lazily drifting up and they literally float through the room.  The temperature and feel of the air is, for me, perfect.  Humid enough to feel soft on the skin, and cool enough to require long sleeves in the evenings.  Sleeping at night with windows wide open is a luxury I no longer have, living in Abu Dhabi.  I plan to relish every minute.

img_0476

All of that said, by far the absolute best part of being here is the people.  They are the kindest, gentlest people I have ever had the pleasure to meet.  Here there are no bad
attitudes.  Everything is good, everything is positive, everything is joyful.  Today is a new day and anything is possible.  Since I was young I have been told that the only limits I have, are those I place upon myself.  Here it is personified.  In fact, the beautiful place I am staying is called Sky Pie because the owner was told to give up his “pie in the sky” dreams.  Sky Pie is 5 buildings – a hostel, a yoga studio, a restaurant, empimg_1349loyee housing, and a building with 24 clean and bright private rooms with individual balconies over the town and valley.  The name is his jesting nod to those who did not believe in his determination.  The people who work there are all smiles and positivity.  They greet us each morning with huge smiles and cheerful good mornings, and each and every one stops at the table to chat as we have our tea.  Even on the mornings we opt to breakfast elsewhere, their enthusiasm is not abated.

We have not wandered far from town yet.  I am focusing on getting into the rhythm of being a student (something I have never been good at) and my husband is here taking Ayurvedic treatments.  We are able to share meals and the occasional yoga class when schedules and aching bodies permit.  img_1398
In the evenings after dinner, we sit on the balcony and watch the sunset reflected on the clouds, or listen to the light rain that sometimes falls this time of year.  We drink red wine from coffee cups, and have a small square of dark chocolate each before turning in for the night.  We don’t bother closing the door, it just blocks the air.

INDIA – Up the hill!

north-india-travel-map

My destination in India is an Ayurvedic school in the small town of Bhagsu Nag (pronounced BOG sue nog).  It’s located in the ‘foothills’ of the Himalayans in northern India.  The flight from Delhi takes about an hour and 45 minutes (gate to gate) on a mid-sized over wing propjet commuter plane.  As you look at the travel map of Northern India above, we are in the northern section of the state of Himachal Pradesh (pronounced him MAH chul prah DESH.)  The name roughly translates to Himalayan Precinct.  It is nestled between the western tourist meccas known as Pakistan, Kashmir and Tibetan China.

Since we have no checked luggage, we go straight out to the taxi stand.  The state set rate for our trip from the airport at Gaggal to Bhagsu is 900 rupees (about $13.50), and I think that’s fine for a 20 km trip with no guarantee of return fare.  Now I am telling you that man was highly underpaid.  The ride takes almost an hour on a winding mountain road, I cannot begin to guess the average grade.  What I can tell you is this:  Gaggal airport sits at roughly 2400 feet in altitude.  Bhagsu is at 7200 feet.  Altogether that’s not too far off the altitude differential between Phoenix and Flagstaff… Only it’s 20 kilometers (as the crow flies).  Which is 12 ½ miles.  Yeah.  Interesting ride.  The last 2 km (between Dharamshala and Bhagsu) is an altitude increase of 2400 feet.  So, roughly the altitude differential between Sedona and Flag in 2 kilometers… 1 ¼ miles.  The ride is made even more interesting by 3 additional factors:

  • The road is not wide enough for 2 cars to pass without coming almost to a stop and gently easing past each other.
  • The car is a standard shift.
  • It is just the end of the rainy season, and there are places where the road has been recently washed out or covered over by mud slides, and by all appearances, only very recently cleared enough for us to pass.

We encounter traffic in both directions, of the pedestrian as well as wheeled variety.   We are in India, so the driver makes significant use of the vehicle’s horn, using it as a warning just prior to and during each hairpin curve.  As in hiking, the uphill had the right of way – at least theoretically. We pass through a National Park on the way and our driver stops so that we can take photos.  It is lush and green, and very well manicured.  During this stretch, the road is a bit wider and very nice.  The sign says is it Dimg_0452haramshalimg_0455a Park, and the trail through it is called the Himachal Trail.  I wonder if it is similar to the Appalachian Trail, instead running along the Himalayans.  Given the img_0470location, probably best for me not to hike it. Between the airport and our destination are 2 towns, the one we come to is Dharamshala, the largest town in the precinct.  We reach it at lunchtime when the locals are in the streets.  Oh my!  Getting 2 vehicles and hundreds of people up and down this road requires that we slow to pedestrian speed and fold in the side mirrors.  We creep along the street. img_1300 As people pass us, it is apparently accepted practice for them to reach in through the window and steady themselves by grabbing onto the seat back.  It took us a good 10 minutes of the drive to get through what by any standards is a very, very, small community.  All of one main street with one side street in each direction. The second town we come to is Mcleodganj (pronounced MAC lee odd gahnj).  It is here that the Dalai Lama has his monastery.  Macleod is a distant downhill kilometer from where I am (between here and Dharamshala) and it is commonplace to see the red clad monks in town and walking the roads.  We reach Bhagsu Nag and our driver asks again where we are staying.  Turns out our accommodation is in Upper Bhagsu.  The driver stops at the local cab stand to get directions and then turns around and flat out tells us no, his car will not make it up that road.  Holy Crap!  If it has done fine and he has not hesitated thus far, what must that road look like?  He turns in and takes us to the first (and it turns out only) parking lot that he can turn around in and lets us out.  It is all of 10 yards up the road, which to us does not look significantly different from the rest of the road.  img_1306img_1305We grab our luggage and begin the trek up the road.  At the first turn we see what the cabbie was saying.  The road really isn’t all that much different, but it is just a bit narrower, and the grade actually may be a bit tougher.  Initially we do not see any cars at all, though eventually a jeep passes us (naturally with horn honking).  It seems like forever (about ¼ mile) before we see our destination, and another 50-60 yards before we reach the entrance.  We go up 3 flights of uneven concrete stairs to our room, drop our bags, and head back out. For a number of reasons (having nothing to do with location) we decide the place I had booked was just not going to work out.  So we wandered the street looking at what else was available beginning at the school (bottom of the hill) and ending at Sky Pie Guest House.  If/when you have time please go online and read all about it.  It’s wonderful!  The service, room, staff, and overall energy are all fantastic.  I am supremely happy, and grateful to be in this beautiful place. I have done it!  I start school tomorrow!  YAY!!!

INDIA – 1st Impressions: Delhi

gandhi airport

I had initially planned to take an overnight flight on Friday from Abu Dhabi to Delhi.  There would be a 5-6 hour layover before the Saturday morning flight into Dharamshala.  After the winding mountain cab ride, I had planned to arrive into Bhagsunag (where I am staying) by around 2:00 on Saturday afternoon.  Plenty of time to rest and get my bearings before school started on Monday.  Thanks to my old friend Mr Poopyhead, my travel plans had to change and the overnight flight was not available on Sunday evening.  An earlier option on Sunday afternoon was, and we opted for that.  Ultimately I lost only a day of classes.  Easy to make up!  However, as a result, our layover in Delhi was too long to spend in the airport, so we took a hotel in town for 1 night.

Wow.

Anybody who has ever been to a large Asian city has seen this kind of traffic.  Traffic the likes of which make a simple American rush hour look, well, simple.  Delhi driving is not an exception.  There are SO many people here, you can almost understand how a 2 lane IMG_0433road with a smallish shoulder becomes something between 4 and 5 lanes of living vehicular dance.
The horn, of course, is an integral part of whatever vehicle has been selected.  There were cars and trucks and busses, but also bicycles, rickshaws, tuktuks, horses, scooters, and many, many, motorcycles (sometimes with entire families riding on them).   IMG_1260Everybody darts in and out of whatever spot they feel will get them to their destination more quickly.  They do so with copious horn usage, quick reflexes, and absolutely no fear.  At lights the motorcycles and scooters somehow work their way between cars (though I have no idea how, as closely as they are packed) and end up at the front of the line.  When the light turns green, a virtual sea of 2 wheeled vehicles takes off in every direction, gunning it as they do so in order to gain an extra few seconds in their travels.  The sidewalks and side streets are teeming with people moving in every direction, with and without apparent purpose.  IMG_0434Our commute to the hotel takes over an hour, and we have the opportunity to see the many different ways people live and survive in a city of this size.

We are accompanied by a driver and an escort from the hotel.  The driver’s job is strictly to drive (which is completely understandable) our escort fields questions.  One of the first questions we ask is how many people live here.  He tells us that the ‘official’ number is around 18 million, but the actual is closer to 22 million.  I don’t know the size in terms of landmass, but I can say that looking out the window it did not appear to be as large as most American cities that I have seen from the sky on the landing approach.  Even having seen this kind of crowding before, I am amazed at the sheer number of people everywhere around us, in every direction.  Street vendors with brightly lit carts line the side roads, and the illumination seems to be coming from these as opposed to streetlights.  We IMG_1259laugh with our escort at the cacophony of car horn, just as Italians cannot speak without using their hands.  “When you test a new vehicle here, you must also test the horn!”  Eventually I imagine, you learn to tune it out unless it is close to you.

We arrive at our hotel.  The car is inspected by armed guards, our luggage is put through a scanner, and we are wanded before being allowed to enter.  Security in India (as much of the world) is taken very seriously.  We are greeted inside by serene and happy faces, hands to hearts, and smiling ‘namaste’ from the hotel employees.  Our room is impeccably clean and very nice.  Downstairs in the lounge we have a light dinner with a glass of wine, and my husband gets a lesson in cricket as he watches a match between England and Pakistan with some of the locals on the big screen.

The next morning we are up bright and early.  We had been IMG_1267advised to depart in plenty of time to be able to make it through the rush hour traffic so as to reach the airport in plenty of time to clear security and make our flight.  The drive in daylight is not as friendly.  While the lack of infrastructure and poor housing conditions were obvious even at night, what we could not see then stares us in the face during our drive back.  I knew that only 40% of the population of India has access to sanitary facilities.  I knew not to drink the water or eat the street food.  I did NOT know that what appeared to me to be a city refuse dump was actually a community… until the light of day.  People sleep in the median, on the sidewalks, inside unlit buildings that are either falling down, or under construction (I can’t really tell).  They make homes out of cardboard, tarps, sticks and metal. IMG_1269 Whatever they can cobble together to provide themselves shelter. I wish I’d had my camera at the ready for the one image that is strongest in my head.  In a sea of trash and tarps, I saw a man seated atop what looked like a pile of corrugated metal.  He was meditating… legs crossed, hands relaxed to his knees, eyes closed, head turned slightly up.  He was finding calm in the chaos.  I was in awe and felt a deep respect for his ability to do that.

IMG_1274

NOTE: I am finding high speed connection to be sketchy where I am.  It took me a couple of days to find the right spot and hopefully this will upload quickly.  If so, I will post again tomorrow!  As always, thanks for keeping up!