Domestikatie

It’s been a week and a half now and I am FINALLY starting to get over my jet lag.  Talk about ridiculous!  I have never had this much of an issue adjusting – and yes I have traveled this far before (almost anyway).  However, I was not this old when I did.  I take some solace in hearing from others that my battle to achieve appropriate wake/sleep cycles is nothing unusual.  The other expats here have said their experiences have been much the same.  It seems a combination of the heat and the 11 hour time difference makes sudden extended naps, at odd times of day, a sort of rite of passage.  BUT I’ve made it through (at least I think I have) and have emerged unscathed and ready to be awake and present for an entire day.   We’ll see how that goes.

Over the course of the last 10 days I have been learning about the cost of living here.  One very happy and unexpected thing I believe I mentioned in an earlier post, has been the access to, and quality of, fresh produce.  In addition to country of origin being clearly labeled on everything, the cost of the goods is less than back home, while the selection is much greater.  Spices can be bought in jars from a shelf OR you can buy them fresh in bulk, in any quantity that you’d like.  Which is perfect for me as I am currently down to cooking for only 1 or 2 depending on the day of the week.  The smells in the bulk food and produce sections are intoxicatingly wonderful and the variety really does continue to amaze me.  When you add the fact that almost everything is less expensive, sometimes significantly so, it all equals a very, very, happy me.

Eating out it appears is a little bit more expensive here than in the states, and the experience is quite a bit different.  For example, in the US, the point seems to be to push sales and turn tables as much and as quickly as possible.  Here, the pace is much more subdued.  There is an art and a balance between good customer service and upselling that the local service staff seems to have mastered, and so far it has appeared across the board regardless of where we have gone.  The staff at a fast food place (an oxymoron here) treats you the same as the staff at an upscale dining establishment.  They are smiling, outgoing, friendly, and helpful, while not being pushy at all.  Ever.  They can describe each dish in detail, and are happy to tell you what their personal favorite is (and why they like it) as well as share which are the most popular dishes.  I have not encountered a single server that has made me feel as though I was inconveniencing them by asking about the menu, nor one who has pushed me (or us as the case may be) to hurry up and leave once the meal had been finished.  In fact, as opposed to dropping off the check 3 minutes into your meal, as so often happens in the US, here you must signal when you are ready to have it.  Taking your time, enjoying your meal and your dinner partner (or your book) is encouraged.  It has really challenged me to eat more slowly and enjoy the experience.  To actually dine, rather than just slam down something and move on.  This is no easy feat for a champion speed eater such as myself!  I am however, determined to achieve greatness in this category.

Ok so we all know it’s hot here.  Reeeaaallllyyy hot.  Knock you down and take your breath away hot.  But let’s face it, I have lived in two of the worst weather hell holes on the planet – Phoenix, AZ and Houston, TX. So how bad could it be?  What living in those places teaches you is that the guy who invented air conditioning should be promoted to god status.  Abu Dhabi living does nothing to derail that train of thought.

Moving past the obvious weather issue, let’s tackle the big city issue…  Abu Dhabi is a large city.  Not huge, but big enough, around a million people.  Each of whom owns (apparently) a brand new car.  I have not seen a single beater on the road.  Nor anything older than about 3 years.  Also, there are no emission controls so – the air looks like it does in every other big city around the world with no emission controls – dirty.  It reminds me of LA in the 70s and early 80s, it’s hard to see the sun through the air.  Also like LA, there is a great coastline.  That means that close to the water (or on the water) there is that fantastic sea breeze that really helps to ever so slightly mitigate the heat.

Now for the really good stuff… The architecture is fantastic!  I think I will take photos over the next few weeks to show how cool some of the building designs here are.  Also fantastic?  Customer Service.  They have definitely got a grip on treating customers well in this country.

AD is a very international city and the people seem happy to be here.  Smiles everywhere and lots going on.  Because of the heat, most outdoor activity takes place early and late.  I don’t see a whole lot of movement out on the streets during midday (except for the occasional idiot newbie white girl gawking at the architecture.)

I love all of the cultures represented in the restaurants around, and also on display at the grocery store.  The produce section at Lulus puts every grocery store I have ever been in to shame, without exception.  SO many things I have never tried or even heard of, as well as all of those that I have.  I am going to be in food heaven here!  My next move is to travel to the souks (street markets) to see the array of spices and fruits and rugs and fish and….  But early.  Really early.

Things to get used to:

• Most restaurants do not serve any alcohol. You have to go to a resort to have a glass of wine with dinner.  The good news is that they have amazing fresh juices and teas to enjoy.  Yesterday my husband had a fresh ginger lemonade, and I had a mint limeade.  Both were cool and refreshing.  I got a bottle of fresh kiwi mint limeade at the grocery store.  Wonderful!
• There are no neighborhood bars, again you must go to a resort to get a cocktail.
• Due to the heat, the main daytime activity is hanging at the mall – ugh! BUT the malls are HUGE, so doing just one lap in the air conditioning (if you hit all parts and all levels) is going to be multiple miles.
• Workout facilities and classes are not coed. There are separate facilities and classes for men and for women.  I find this to be a good thing!
• Swimming pool water is not cooled.  It is tepid.  Hmmm.
• Taxi drivers are very closely monitored and a disembodied voice comes out of the speakers to tell them they are speeding and must slow down.   LOL!

 

If you count from the moment I stepped into Sky Harbor airport, my trip from Phoenix to Abu Dhabi was a total of 23 hours. Now I have traveled quite a bit – maybe even extensively by some measures. Often I have traveled alone. This is a large part of the reason that I have never been to the Middle East. I admit I was not familiar with the airline named Etihad. I cannot recall even seeing it before.

I can now say that I am familiar with Etihad, the airline of Abu Dhabi, and I am impressed. The service was unmatched. I have flown first or business class on many, many different airlines – more than I can recall. None of them even came close. The service, food, attitude and cleanliness of this airline is unmatched in my experience so far. Understated and oozing class in every way.

The only disconcerting thing for me on the entire trip was looking out and seeing NOT the double decker 4 engine monster I expected, but a simple 777. For a flight that is 15 hours and 35 minutes IN THE AIR! 2 engines. Really? I worked for the airlines in a time that no over water flight ever had 2 engines. They were thought unsafe. I know technology has come a long way since those dark ages but still… 2 engines for a flight that takes 2/3 of a full day? I admit to feeling more than a little bit of trepidation.

Before takeoff the flight attendants distributed magazines, newspapers, drinks and…. jammies! We each got a set to change into when we decided it was time to sleep. They were modest, lightweight cotton and super comfy. Did we all look like a bunch of cult members? Why yes, yes we did. Did we care? Not a bit!

The menu represented multiple cultures and diets. It was 4 pages (in English, 5 more in Arabic) with an insert listing a selection of wines and spirits. Before takeoff I enjoyed a chilled glass of mint lemonade that very clearly was not from a powdered mix. After takeoff I was brought a bowl of warm roasted nuts and a small square of exquisite Belgian dark Chocolate, and a cup of tea as I waited for my dinner selection.

Dinner was 3 courses for me. (The option existed for up to 5 courses, but I simply was not that hungry.) I started with a bowl of squash and cucumber soup. It was amazing, and came with a selection of bread with herbed olive oil for dipping. For dinner I selected a local dish that I forgot the name of. Saffron scented Basmati Rice, topped with cashew curry, roasted vegetables, potato, and fresh green beans as thin as swizzle sticks. It was wonderful and light and delicious, the spices subtle and perfectly blended. For dessert a small fresh fruit and cheese platter that rivaled any I have seen anywhere. This was accompanied by a lovely glass of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. I am not sure even Brix or Cottage Place could have done better!

First class cabin has a “skylight” that simulates a sunny sky when you are to be awake, and a starry night sky when you are to be asleep. Business class carries the same starry night theme through the cabin. I was not on one of the planes that has “apartments” in first class (google it – I’m serious) but nevertheless each person had ample personal and private space. Everybody has their own TV, and 200+ stations with movies, news, sports, TV shows and actual live TV to choose from. In flight wifi was free and strong. I watched a movie while I ate, but otherwise did not partake. I had a book on my trusty Kindle and finished it in bits between my naps.
The seats make VERY comfy beds and the jammies were of a cool and breathable material. With the air jets on high blowing straight at me I closed my eyes and caught up on some very much needed sleep. I will now admit that I slept most of the way. At least 11 hours of the flight. Otherwise I could tell you much more about the amenities. But no, I was exhausted. I woke up after the first 9 hours of sleep and ate a wonderful East Indian breakfast and drank some tea, read a few pages of my book and passed out again. I woke up when the pilot announced our initial descent into Abu Dhabi and quickly changed out of my jammies and into real clothes in time to enjoy a fresh morning energy drink made of fresh beet, carrot, orange and ginger before landing.

If the country is anything like the airline that they sponsor, life is going to be very, very good. This is a fantastic beginning…

In early August of 2013, I was cuddling with my husband (who at that time was not yet my husband) discussing potential post retirement thoughts/dreams/plans, when he says to me;

I have something in mind that I want to do, or try to do, but I don’t really think it would work for you.

I replied why on earth would I ever try to keep him from doing anything he really wanted to do AND that he could not possibly ever decide what would or would not work for me. We had to discuss it to know.

He blurts out that he wants to apply for a job in the United Arab Emirates. I did not hesitate when I said Let’s do it!

Now, almost 3 years later, I am sitting on an airplane headed for Abu Dhabi, where my (now) husband has already been for 3 months. His is a work visa. My visa reads “Housewife.” (WTH!!!) I have no idea what to do with that, but I am pretty sure it has never been in my repertoire. And so the adventure begins… Stay Tuned!